How We Spent Two Days in Lima, Peru
We relaxed and strolled through the neighborhoods of San Isidro and Miraflores in Lima for two days. Read about what we ate, where we stayed, and what we saw.
By Shainur Ahsan
Relaxing in Lima
My wife and I recently took a trip to Peru and spent two days with an open schedule exploring Lima. Our time in the city was nowhere near as adventurous as it was in Cusco, but we enjoyed our time nevertheless. Here are our experiences and recommendations on food, accommodations, and attractions. Be sure to also read about our jam-packed time in Cusco here.
Planning Our Lima Itinerary
With how tight our schedule was in Cusco, we wanted to keep an open schedule during our time in Lima with a list of potential areas to visit.
After we arrived in Peru, we spent one night in the neighborhood of San Isidro prior to leaving the next night for Cusco. Returning two days later, we spent a full day in the neighborhood of Miraflores before heading back to the US on the following day.
Here was our schedule for our time in Lima:
Where We Stayed in Lima
After reading about the different areas of Lima, San Isidro and Miraflores stood out as the best choices for tourists. These neighborhoods are close to the coast and offer a nice selection of shopping, restaurants, and attractions. Given that this was our first time in Peru and it was short, we didn’t venture out into other neighborhoods. We spent our first day and night at The Dazzler in San Isidro and our second and third nights at Casa Andina Premium in Miraflores.
The Dazzler by Wyndham San Isidro
Although not quite near major attractions, The Dazzler is a nice hotel located with stores and cafes close by. There is a local grocery store and a few cafes within a five minute walk to the west and a larger shopping center located within 15-20 minutes to the north. The coast is also about the same distance to the south. Overall, we felt the hotel was close enough to all of our main needs, and the area didn’t seem too noisy.
The hotel had a modern style throughout and offered some nice amenities such as a restaurant, rooftop pool and deck, and gym. We enjoyed the amazing views of the neighborhood from the wrap-around rooftop deck on the top story. We loved the room and had a comfortable night’s sleep. The staff was also very helpful in directing us to where we could get local currency and sim cards nearby. They also assisted with storing our luggage after we checked out and arranged for a taxi to take us to the airport. Overall, we were very satisfied by our stay at the Dazzler and would recommend it to anyone wanting to stay in a quieter part of the city while still having access to nice amenities.
Casa Andina Premium Miraflores
We couldn’t wait to get to Casa Andina Premium after hiking to Humantay Lake and flying in from Cusco earlier in the day! The hotel is located a few blocks away from Parque de Kennedy which has many stores, restaurants, and attractions nearby. The hotel was about a 25 minute walk to the coast. We loved visiting the local stores and cafes within the neighboring blocks and could get basic supplies at one of the many convenience stores.
The hotel entrance and lobby were clean and modern. In the lobby area, there was ample seating, a bar, and even a small clothing boutique. Although we felt comfortable in the room, it did feel outdated. The room offer basic amenities such as a TV, mini-fridge, ironing board, and toiletries. We didn’t get the chance to check out the pool or gym areas. Overall, our stay at the hotel was very comfortable.
When we stepped into the hotel restaurant for the complimentary breakfast, we were completely overwhelmed! We had never seen such a large breakfast buffet before. The number of dishes could easily rival a full service lunch/dinner buffet. There was also a great variety of items such as meats, fruits, breads, and pastries. On top of that, they also had an a la carte menu where you could order addition dishes.
The breakfast dishes were as delicious as they looked. With so many choices, we literally did not have room to try everything. We did save some space after two rounds at the buffet to order the Quinoa waffles and eggs benedict from the a la carte menu. Although we didn’t get to check out all the hotel amenities, I’m confident the hotel’s breakfast buffet is the best one. We would gladly come back to Casa Andina Premium just for the breakfast.
Where and What We Ate in Lima
Given our more open schedule in Lima, we had the opportunity to take advantage of Lima’s reputation as a culinary destination. There were a few instances when we had to buy fast food due to convenience and traveling, but we did get to sample a number of local dishes. Although we didn’t indulge in fine dining at some of the city’s most famous restaurants, we were more than satisfied by the ones we visited in San Isidro and Miraflores.
A Quick Bite at Sofa Cafe in San Isidro
We started off our experience the night of our arrival by visiting Sofa Cafe which was just a few blocks away from The Dazzler. As it was already late in the evening, we opted for a quick bite. I ordered the Lomito con Champinones and my wife ordered a Hamburger. The meat in the sandwich was tender and juicy and was complemented with a side of fries and some Inca Kola.
Lomita Con Champinones
Hamburguesa
A Refreshing Lunch at Pescados Capitales
The next day we ventured out of our hotel in the morning in search of local currency and sim cards. As we were waiting for the main shopping center to open, we stumbled into a local cafe and had simple cheese sandwiches with mango smoothies. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the name and didn’t take any photos of the place.
A few hours of walking later, we decided to have lunch at Pescados Capitales after seeing a lot of great reviews. Since this was going to be our first proper meal, we decided on an appetizer, entrees, and desert and were satisfied at each course. We started with the Wantanes Capitales. As I mentioned in my post about Cusco, Chinese-fusion cuisine is popular throughout the country and many restaurants feature these types of dishes. These wantons were filled with shrimp and were served with a tangy dipping sauce.
Wantanes Capitales
For entrees, I ordered the Cebiche del Dia (Ceviche of the Day) while my wife ordered the Causa Langostinos. Both dishes were presented beautifully. The Ceviche featured a white fish topped with onion paired with local corn and sweet potato in lime juice. You could definitely taste the freshness of the fish and the sweet potato was cooked just right. The ingredients came together to create a unique flavor not too overwhelmed by the lime juice. My wife’s dish consisted of cold mashed potatoes with a layer of shrimp in a chile sauce in the middle and topped with a quail egg. There’s were dollops of two different sauces also on the dish, although we struggled to identify the main sauce ingredients. Though the dish was served cold, it was refreshing especially after walking around the city on a hot day.
Cebiche del Dia
Causa Langostinos
We finished off our meal with desert and all of the dishes looked delicious. We picked the Doma Choca-Lucuma because it was the most unfamiliar to us. It ended up being a great choice and featured chocolate blended with lucuma, a local fruit, and accompanied by a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Again, the dish presentation was on point. We were stuffed from our meal as we left very little left on our plates. That night we flew out to Cusco and decided to try the local KFC at the airport which ended up being very similar to the American version.
Doma Choca-Lucuma
Nearby Lunch at Tanuki
After arriving back late evening from Cusco on Day 4, we again opted for convenience and this time tried out the Peruvian Popeye’s which did have a few unique choices but nothing that stood out from the American version. The next day we ventured out into Miraflores and had a craving for Japanese food. After finding out our first choice was closed, we walked a few more blocks and arrived at Tanuki Restaurante Japones.
The restaurant offered traditional Japanese dishes featuring traditional sushi, teriyaki, bento boxes, and others. I ordered the Tanuki Chicken which was fried chicken tossed in the restaurant’s namesake sauce. My wife ordered the tempura roll and salmon roll. The Tanuki chicken was delicious and the sauce was similar to the Yum sauce that usually comes with Bento boxes. The sushi was also great and you could tell that the ingredients were fresh. We ordered green tea to go with our meal.
Tanuki Chicken
Tempura Roll
Salmon Roll
A Landmark Dinner At Huaca Puclana
To end our last night in Lima, I decided to book a reservation at one of the more popular restaurants. I made the reservation a few days in advance as we didn’t know what our plan for the day would be. Other than reading the good reviews of the food, I didn’t know much about the venue and didn’t place much attention to the name.
When we arrived, we realized the restaurant, Restaurant Huaca Puclllana, was just next door to one of the main attractions in Lima – the Huaca Pucllana. Even better, we were shown to our table which was in a seating area in an outdoor tent that had a nice view of the ruins.
We sat there wondering why the lights weren’t on as we were nearly one hour past sunset. Within five minutes, the lights were turned on and created one of the most unique dinner atmospheres we had experienced.
The menu featured traditional Peruvian dishes including many from the Cusco region. Our dinner started with the Langostinos Amelcochados (Shrimp with Tumbo Sauce) for a starter. The dish consisted of crispy shrimp in a spicy sauce served with avocado.
For our entrees, I ordered the Sabano Loma (Beef Tenderloin) and my wife ordered the Picanted de Langostinos (Shrimp in Aji Sauce with beans and corn). I ordered my dish due to the unique combination of ingredients. It featured a breaded and flattened steak topped with fried bananas and an egg with a side of rice and beans. Though I was cautiously optimistic at first, the flavors ended up coming together great. My wife’s dish was also enjoyable with the sauce bringing pieces the together.
We were too stuffed from the day’s meals to attempt dessert. Overall, we were very satisfied with our meal and the ambiance. We learned that normally, the Huaca Pucllana is open to visitors at night. Unfortunately, it had closed due to the increasingly serious situation with COVID-19.
What We Saw in Lima
During our relaxed time in Lima, we decided to visit the attractions nearby to eliminate having to plan or dedicate too much time to any one place. We strolled through Lima’s parks, along its cliffs, along its beaches, and stopped in to a few shopping centers along the way.
Malecon Godfredo Garcia
After getting local supplies on our first full day in Lima, we decided to walk towards the coast from our hotel. We started by walking towards Parque de la Benemerita Guardia and enjoyed the sights along the way. A number of Lima’s streets have wide medians with shaded pedestrian and bike paths running in the middle. On our walk along the way, we saw a number of colonial Spanish style homes and embassies.
The Parque de la Benemerita Guardia itself isn’t too large and is a nice place to relax. It connects to the Malecon Godfredo Garcia which is a pathway that follows the cliffside and overlooks the coastline and ocean. The pathway itself is not shaded but there are a few grassy patches along the way which have palm trees offering shade. There are also flowers along much of the path.
After enjoying the views along the cliff side, we were ready for lunch and refreshments. We walked another 20 minutes to a nearby neighborhood and found Pescados Capitales.
La Pampilla (Beach)
After lunch at Pescados Capitales, we were ready to check out one of Lima’s beaches. We decided to go to La Pampilla which was not too far away and hailed a taxi. The taxi took us along the Circuito de Playas which is a highway built between the base of the cliff and the coastline. It’s a very scenic drive and reminds me of the Pacific Coast Highway in California.
After we were dropped off at the beach, we walked closer to the shore and were amazed by the views looking down the shoreline. Lima’s beaches are rocky but with smooth rocks. A few areas along the coast do have patches of sand placed down. Surfers are common at Lima’s beaches and you can even learn to surf if you want.
We were ready to head back to our hotel and get ready to fly out to Cusco after a few hours on the beach. Hailing a taxi to pick you up from the beach can be tricky as there are limited places where taxis can pull off of the main highway. If you walk along the beach you should find a spot to be picked up.
Parque de John F. Kennedy
On our second full day in Lima, we started late after resting from our intense adventures in Cusco the previous two days. We walked a few blocks west of our hotel to arrive at Parque de John F. Kennedy which is near the center of Miraflores.
The park is teaming with activity as it is surrounded by stores and shopping centers. There are a number of food carts along its winding paths. The Miraflores Central Park is just next door and is separated only by a pedestrian path.
One of the best parts of the park was walking among the cats roaming around. The cats are fairly relaxed and did not appear to be aggressive. In fact, it appears food and water are provided for the cats. The cats can be found all over lying on the grass, paths, and benches. A number of them also hide in the numerous flowers and bushes throughout. Once you’ve wandered through the park, you can also check out some of the historic buildings nearby.
After doing some light shopping at the nearby stores, we were ready for lunch and headed a few blocks north to eat at Tanuki.
Parque del Amor (Love Park) and Puente Villena Rey (Bridge)
When we finished our lunch, we were ready to walk off some calories. We started walking towards the coast which was about 25 minutes away. A cobblestone road leads down to the beach with roads leading to the cliff on either side. Take either road to the cliff and you’ll have a nice view during your walk to the coast.
Once we got to the end of the street, we arrived at the Puente “Mellizo” Villena Rey Bridge which is featured in many pictures you may see of Lima. There are some trails that can take you down the cliff to the beach, but we opted to enjoy the views from the top and head to Parque del Amor (Love Park).
The park is famous as a destination for couples, and true to its name we saw many couple throughout. The park also offers some incredible views of the bridge and the coast.
We visited late in the afternoon so that we could enjoy watching the sunset on the Pacific. You’ll want to get there before sunset in order to grab a spot along the edge of the park as it gets crowded.
We headed to dinner at Restaurant Huaca Pucllana shortly after sunset.
Huaca Pucllana
True, we didn’t really go to see the ruins at Huaca Pucllana up close. During our dinner at the adjacent restaurant, we were able to get some great views of the ruins lit up at night. Had restrictions due to Covid-19 not been in place, we would have taken advantage of evening admissions to see the ruins after our dinner. Though I had seen pictures before our trip, I didn’t understand the true size and scale of the ruins until seeing it in person. If you have the time, put Huaca Pucllana on your must-see list.
Tips for Visiting Lima
We learned quite a bit during our quick trip to Lima. We hope to come back one day with the knowledge we have gained. I’m sure we will feel more comfortable exploring new parts of the city. Here are our tips for visiting the city:
Get a Local Sim Card
We stayed connected with family and friends during our trip by getting a local sim card. We used Movistar but have heard that Claro and Entel are great choices too. The cell companies typically offer packages with different durations and data limits to cater to tourists. Be sure to have an unlocked phone and bring your passport with you to buy a sim card. Contact your US cell service provider prior to your trip if you’re unsure if your phone is unlocked or not.
You can find sim cards at stalls located in shopping centers and larger stores. If you happen to be running low on your balance, you can usually recharge your sim card at one of many local convenience stores scattered around the city.
Tips for Taxis
Photo by Peter Kasprzyk on Unsplash
For known trips, such as traveling between the airport and your hotel, use pre-booked taxis as much as possible. We used Taxidatum and loved it. You go online to their website and put in your contact info, your origin and destination and they will arrange a taxi for you. For the most common neighborhoods, the service will tell you the price to travel from the airport in advance. Payment can also be made in advance using a credit card.
When our flight into Lima was delayed, we were worried that the taxi would not wait for use. Sure enough, our drive was waiting in the arrivals area with a sign with my name on it.
For times when you can’t pre-book a taxi, always, always, always ask the driver for the price before you get into their vehicle! If you’re feeling up to it, you can even negotiate the price down. The one time we forgot to ask in advance, the driver charged us double what the fare should have been.
Use a Credit Card with No International Transaction Fee
Photo by Two Paddles Axe and Leatherwork on Unsplash
My Chase Sapphire Reserve was my go-to card during the whole trip as it does not charge any international transaction fees. We had no issue with using credit as all of the restaurants and cafes we visited accepted Visa. We rarely dealt with local merchants (except taxis) in Lima and used the card as much as we could. If the card is a travel rewards card, you’ll earn points for your next trip!
Get Local Currency after Arriving in Peru
If you followed our tips for pre-booking a taxi and using a no international transaction fee credit card, you’ll be able to make it to your hotel without needing any local currency. When we needed to tip before having the currency in hand, we simple used dollars and the recipients were fine with it. Once you’re settled, you can find currency exchange booths at some of the larger grocery store chains in the city. In case you cannot find a store, simply use your debit card at any ATM but know that there will be a fee.
Book Popular Restaurants in Advance
We wanted to try some of Lima’s most revered restaurants as it is a culinary destination in South America, but found most places to be booked a few weeks ahead of our trip. If you really want to check out Lima’s most popular places, make a reservation a month or more in advance.
Ask for an English Menu
Most of the time we went to eat, my wife and I were mistaken for native Spanish speakers. When they realized we were not, many were quick to bring out an English menu. If they don’t bring you one, simply request one from your waiter. We were surprised that most places we went to had menus in English.
Conclusion
With nowhere near as packed of a schedule in Cusco, we had a nice relaxed time in Lima to enjoy the sights and let our vacation sink in. Although we only scratched the surface of what the city had to offer, we had a good sample of the restaurant scene and what some of its neighborhoods had to offer. We want to come back someday to further explore the city and its fine dining. Here are some key things to try while in the city:
Must Do's in Lima:
- Walk on One of the Many Paths Along Lima's Coast
- Catch a Sunset on the Pacific
- Visit Huaca Pucllana
- Enjoy Lima's Culinary Scene at One of Many of Its Restaurants
Consider the tips on this article to help plan you stay for your future trip to Lima. If you want to learn more about how we used points to pay for most of our trip, read the article here. If you are also headed to Cusco, read our article here about how we crammed adventure into a two-day stay.
Lima is the gateway to Peru for travelers and must not be overlooked as a destination unto itself for those seeking to explore the country.
Photos of Peru in this post are the property of S. Ahsan and J. Atahar except where noted.
